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The Far Northern Beaches of the Bulgarian Coast
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The Far Northern Beaches of Bulgaria - Serenity and Wilderness

Bulgaria's seaside beaches to the far north are relatively less unknown to the ordinary holiday-maker. In contrast to the big resorts in Varna's proximity (Zlatni Pyasatsi or Golden Sands, Albena, etc.), the far northern coast is characterized by smaller towns and villages where tourists do not abound. On the one hand, this carries the obvious advantage of serenity and wilderness, but on the other, it goes hand in hand with dirtier beaches and poor infrastructure, including lack of good restaurants and stores. Nevertheless, we have come across some of the best beaches in Bulgaria there. To start with, our personal discovery was the beach near the village of Ezerets. Ezerets is a small non-tourist village 5-6km to the south of Krapets that does not lie on the coast but is some 2-3km. away from it. Despite that (and possibly thanks to that), it has one of the most wonderful beaches we've ever seen - calm and crystal waters, clean sands and hardly any living soul. Yet, one has to bear in mind that the sand is clean from tourist waste, but due to the lack of a concessionaire, here and there one comes across wood pieces, weeds and other waste washed ashore by the sea. Even if not guarded, the beach is convenient for children (of course, under the supervision of a grown-up) as the sea deepens rather gradually. The only problem with Ezerets' beach is how to get there - expectedly, there are no signs in the village of Ezerets (or from anywhere else). One has to leave the village in eastern direction and ride dirty roads through pepper gardens. When these gardens are watered, the road becomes rather muddy and one can get stuck there if not riding an offroad vehicle - as we did once and managed to get out only with th help of two Roma youngsters working in the gardens. Despite all these shortcomings, the Ezerets beach is really worth the efforts to get there. Needless to say, one has to bring his/her own food and drinks for the day, as there are no caf?s or ambulant traders around.

Two other beaches in the vicinity of Ezerets are those of Krapets (7 km. to the north of Ezerets) and Durankulak (further 15 km. to the north of Krapets). Actually both beaches are to be found outside the villages of Krapets and Durankulak and are equally known by the names of the two camping sites situated there - Karvuna (no longer functioning) and Cosmos, respectively. The two beaches are in fact quite similar in nature - long and relatively open to the sea, which suggests that the sea is often turbulent. On the other hand, there are hardly any tourists there due to the significant length of the beaches and the relatively low popularity of the two resorts. The main problem with the openness of the beaches to the sea is that they are easily filled with sea waste or alga. While there is no place where one can grab a snack or a drink at the Karvuna beach, the Kosmos (or Durankulak) beach has the advantage of a small restaurant, that services the camping site. Moreover, just 1-2km. away from the Kosmos beach one can visit a nice nearby restaurant, situated just next to the Durankulak Lake. One of our favourite places, the Ezeroto (Lake) restaurant offers a delicious fish soup with fish from the lake, crabs from the lake (if one is lucky enough to visit the restaurant when there was a catch), and plenty of fish meals. The garden of the restaurant is convenient for kids, while one can even spend the night there at several newly built wooden villas.

But let us get back to the beaches. Another beach that falls within our favourites' list is the Shablenska Tuzla beach. Just several km. to the south of Shabla, the beach is surrounded by a vast camping site where one can find accommodation in a decent bungalow or even a small hotel. The beach is characterized by fine golden sand and relatively calm waters. Here, one can also take a mud bath and cover his/her body with curative mud from the Shabla lake. Right on the Shablenska Tuzla beach there is a sand volleyball ground, while a simple restaurant next to the beach offers simple but tasty meals.

To sum up, one can find plenty of beaches outside the main resorts of the northern seaside. These are traditionally less crowded even if tranquility is traded for less (or no) restaurants, snack bars, sports facilities and the like. The fact that the far northern seaside is less developed as a tourist product carries its positives, too, especially for backpackers and naturelovers that are typically less picky.

Author: Desislava Nikolova,

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